Rottweiler Ownership © ARC Rottweiler Ownership Introducing the Rottweiler The Rottweiler is a robust, powerful, and loyal dog with strong protective instincts. Rottweilers are outstanding companions and protectors. Because of the Rottweiler’s size, strength, and protectiveness, owning a Rottweiler carries a great deal of responsibility and commitment. Guidelines for Buying a Rottweiler Your first consideration in buying a Rottweiler should be the knowledge that for the next ten or more years that dog will be a part of your house-hold. Unlike your automobile, you can not trade in your Rottweiler for a newer model. As a companion to your whole family, your Rottweiler will reflect the love and affection you show him. He will represent an emo-tional investment as well as a financial investment. Therefore, choose him carefully. Know as much as possible about the breed and his breeder before you buy. Deal only with a reputable breeder! Selecting a Breeder Much of the success you will have with your Rottweiler depends upon what happened to your dog before it comes to you. Its genetic back-ground, early conditioning, and socialization are the results of the breeder’s efforts. Reputable breeders are those who: . Study genetics, nutrition, structure, and movement because their primary concern is producing dogs that measure up against the breed’s standard of perfection. See the breed standard on page 11. . See that all their animals receive the proper inoculations at the appointed intervals in consultation with their veterinarian. . Give evidence of their concern with the humane treatment of dogs by shipping only to individual parties, shipping puppies in safe, comfortable enclosures with adequate ventilation, and never shipping puppies under seven weeks of age. . Give individual attention to raising and socializing each puppy in clean and healthy surroundings where it can live happily with people and with other dogs. . Are happy to assist you with directions for the feeding. training, and grooming of your puppy. . Occasionally have young adults as well as puppies available. They will help you select a quality animal at a price comparable with, and ultimately better than, that offered by a commercial pet store. . Will openly discuss pricing and financial arrangements. They will provide proof of AKC registration. . Never mass produce puppies to be sold as a commodity. . Never deal in gimmicks or unreasonable guarantees. . Never use high pressure sales practices to sell you on a breed or a particular puppy. Rather, they will encourage you to study, visit other breeders, and attend an all-breed dog show before you decide. Not all breeders are conscientious. Commercial establishments, those specializing in “attack” or “aggressive” Rottweilers, pet shops, “puppy mills” seldom have the time to give the individualized attention that puppies and new puppy owners need. Visiting the Kennel Whenever you visit a kennel there are certain things you have a right to know about the breeder. You may want to ask some of these questions: 1. Why did you breed this litter? 2. How many litters do you breed a year? 3. Do you show your own puppies and dogs and with what success? 4. Do you belong to a local or national breed club? 5. Has your veterinarian checked these puppies? 6. If a hereditary defect appears in the puppy, will there be a refund or a replacement? Decide before you buy whether you want a pet quality puppy or a show potential puppy. A pet quality puppy is a healthy example of the breed which falls just a little short of the standard of perfection in some way. A show potential puppy is one which measures up strongly against breed standard and has no disqualifying faults. If you intend to show your dog, study the breed standard carefully. Visit several breeders. Observe the off spring produced by various breeders at American Kennel Club (AKC) sanctioned matches and shows. For a list of informative pamphlets, please contact the American Kennel Club, 51 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10010. Some Terms You Need to Know Purebred: A dog of known quality and ancestry, with both parents of the same breed for many generations. Pedigree: A form which has the names and the registration numbers of a dog’s ancestors. Sometimes referred to as the dog’s “papers.” A pedigree is not acceptable for registration with the AKC. Registration Papers: Forms which entitle you to register your purebred dog. If these papers are not available at the time you pur-chase your puppy, be certain that they are forthcoming. Do not buy the dog unless you receive: 1. Full identification of the dog in writing 2 2. Signature of the seller including the co-owner, if any 3. Names of the sire and dam of the dog and their registra-tion numbers 4. Name, address, and telephone number of the breeder 5. The AKC litter number or registration number. Breed Standard: A description of the desired characteristics of a breed. Breeders use the standard to ensure they are producing dogs that have these desired characteristics. They continuously measure the quality of their dogs against this standard of excellence. You should read the standard closely before you look at the first puppy, particularly if there is a chance you will become interested in showing your dog in conformation shows. You can find the standard for each breed in your library’s copy of The Complete Dog Book published by the American Kennel Club. The breed standard for the Rottweiler on page 11. Conformation Shows: Events at which AKC registered dogs compete for points toward a championship through a prescribed system. A judge compares dog with the breed standard in terms of conformation, movement, and temperament. Animals which have been neutered are not eligible to compete in these shows. Obedience Trials: Events in which AKC registered dogs compete by performing specific exercises at various levels of difficulty. Obedience trials can be held separately or in conjunction with all-breed shows. Neutered animals are eligible to be shown in obedience trials. Some Questions You May Have About Rottweilers How much do Rottweilers eat? A Rottweiler will not “eat you out of house and home.” Depending on size, age, andd activity level of your dog, it will eat between 5 and 10 pounds of high quality kibble a week. High quality kibble costs between $30 and $40 for a 40 pound bag. Many breeders advise feeding additional meat, vegetables and cottage cheese to puppies. Food, and possible vitamin supplements, can easily cost more than $50 a month. How big are they? Males range from 24 to 27 inches at the shoulder and weigh between 95 and 135 pounds. Females are somewhat smaller measuring 22 to 25 inches at the shoulder and weigh between 80 and 100 pounds. Rottweilers can be found that are larger or smaller han the sizes given, however they are not consid-ered typical by the breed standard. The Rottweiler is very strong for its size. Rottweilers were used in Europe to herd cattle and pull carts. They still retain the compact musculature needed in a herding or draft animal. A full grown Rottweiler can easily knock a person down. For this reason, the breed is not recommended for the elderly or physically infirm. What color are they? Rottweilers must always be black with tan to rust or mahogany markings. The darker markings are more desir-able. Any base color other than black constitutes a disqualification and should be avoided. Are they good with children? How Rottweilers adapt to children varies from individual to individual. Many are very tolerant and loving towards children. Others resent the occasional rough treatment an unknowing child can inflict. The dog’s size can be a serious problem. Rottweilers have accidentally caused injuries o small children in the family by bumping into them and knocking them down or into furniture. This bumping is a natural behavior of the Rottweiler, a legacy from the days when the breed was used to herd cattle. Rottweilers will bump and herd children or elderly family members. Some breeders recommend waiting until children are at least school age or older before bringing a Rottweiler into your home. The amount of space in your home, the age of your children, and the amount of time the dog will be in contact with your children should be part of your decision making process. What is their temperament like? Rottweilers vary from natural clowns, affectionate to almost everyone, to the very reserved one-man dog. Rottweilers are calm and alert companions. Rottweilers often follow their masters around the house keeping a constant and sometimes obtrusive watch over their loved ones. Avoid Rottweilers who are nervous, shy, very excitable, or hyperactive. They are exhibiting traits that are undesirable. Are they aggressive? This trait varies among individuals. All Rottweilers have strong territorial instincts. If socialized properly as a puppy, your Rottweiler will defend you and your property against intruders. Rottweilers have been known to bully or bluff their owners. This trait can be most disconcerting and needs to be overcome when the puppy is very young. Are they easy to train? Because of the size and strength of the animal, the Rottweiler must be trained early in his life. Fortunately, Rottweilers are intelligent working dogs and begin responding to commands as soon as they understand what you want of them. Occasionally there are exceptions. It is very important to establish control over yourr dog. Obedience training is the easiest and best way to do this. Your breeder should be able to help you find a training class. Avoid very rough trainers. Rottweilers can often be con-trolled using verbal reprimands. While they occasionally require strong physical corrections, some trainers tend to be much ougher then necessary. Physical mastery of the dog is often less important than sensitive and positive training methods, time, and patience. Women have been very successful with Rottweilers in obedience and Schutzhund (protection) training. How do you discipline a Rottweiler? The Rottweiler is an intelligent and loyal animal and usually wants to please its owner. Occasionally, a Rottweiler can be very stubborn and may require stronger measures. It is very important that discipline be consistent, fair, and firm, without being rough. Owning a Rottweiler is not for you 3 if you are timid or do not have the time or interest to carefully supervise him. Do they shed? Rottweilers shed twice a year. Usually in the Spring and Fall, they lose much of their coats to help them adjust to the changing seasons. For the remainder of the year, there is seldom any annoyance from shedding. Are they good watchdogs? The Rottweiler’s size and bark will discourage most intruders, yet he will learn to recognize your friends and receive them cordially. If an intruder gets by the size and bark, your Rottweiler will fiercely defend your family and home. The Rottweiler’s instinct to protect those he loves becomes very apparent as he matures. However, problems can arise quickly. Strangers must never come into your home or yard unannounced. Roughhousing with your Rottweiler should be avoided. Rough play encour-ages aggressive behavior. People expected to be in contact with the dog while you are absent should be well known to the dog. Although Rottweilers are unlikely to bite without provocation, being cornered and held by one of these dogs is very unnerving. How much room do they need? A large yard with a six-foot fence is ideal, but Rottweilers have been successfully kept in large apartments. A yard is essential if you are getting a puppy or young dog. A yard will help keep the dog exercised and reduces boredom, possibly preventing some destructive behavior. If you do not have enough space for a Rottweiler consider another breed. Personal commitment on your part is most important. Walking your dog on a regular basis develops a better bond and more personal relationship with your dog than just letting him run in the yard. Should I get a male or a female? This is strictly a matter of personal preference. Both are equal in pet qualities. The male is larger, stronger, and more impressive when first seen. The female, however, should be considered his equal in all other respects. Modern veterinary practice recommends neutering of non-breeding animals of both sexes as a means to a healthier, better pet. How do they handle heat and cold? Rottweilers can tolerate cool temperatures better than warm temperatures. Rottweilers should never be left outside in direct sun during the summer. Heat stroke comes on very quickly because of the dog’s black color. Dogs must have shelter regardless of where you live. Rottweilers were bred to be companions, and are not phys-ically or emotionally equipped to be left outdoors away from people. In warm weather leaving your dog in a car with the windows closed or barely open can be extremely dangerous. Rottweilers, with their black coats and short muzzles are more susceptible to heat stroke than many other breeds. Will my Rottweiler get along with other pets in my home? Rottweiler puppies frequently adapt well to older dogs or cats in your home. However, older Rottweilers can be more difficult to integrate into a new home with other pets. Bringing in a new dog after your Rottweiler has been “ruler of the roost” for awhile can also be a problem. Dog-to-dog aggression is affected by your dog’s socialization experience as a puppy, bloodlines, and sex. Males tend to be less tolerant of other males than they are of females. Bitches may be intolerant of either sex. Rottweilers who are aggressive toward other dogs must be carefully watched when around other dogs. Neutering can lessen aggressive behavior toward other dogs without diminishing territorial protectiveness. What is hip dysplasia? Hip dysplasia is a hereditary developmental disease in Rottweilers and most other large dog breeds. It is a malformation of the hip joint(s). It often causes pain as the dog ages. Parents and grandparents of the puppy you purchase should be free of the disease. The Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) is an organization that evaluates x-rays of dog’s hips and grades the hip structure as either free of dysplasia or as having some degree of the disease. A dog cannot be certified as being free of dysplasia until it is at least two years old. Your breeder should be able to show you reports from the OFA describing the certification of both parents’ hips. Buying a puppy from a litter whose parents are dysplasia free is not a guarantee that your puppy won’t develop dysplasia later on. Research has shown that normal adults produce litters with one third or more of the pups dysplastic as adults. Dysplastic adults tend to produce more severely dysplastic offspring than normal adults. Genetics may contribute to hip dysplasia, but over-weight, too much exercise, and injuries may also contribute to this disease. Hip dysplasia is almost never detectable in puppies younger than six months, and then only in the most severe cases. What is elbow dysplasia? Like hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia is an hereditary disease. It is a malformation of the elbow joint(s). OFA certifies elbow conformation on a pass/ fail basis. As with hip dysplasia, your breeder should be able to show you reports from the OFA defining the conformation of both parents’ elbows. What is the Canine Eye Registration Foundation (CERF)? CERF maintains a registry of dogs who have been certified free of inheritable eye diseases by members of the American College of Veterinary Ophthalmologists (ACVO) CERF recommends registration of breeding animals be repeated annually. Thinking of Buying a Rottweiler? Perhaps by now you are thinking of purchasing a Rottweiler. Good! Rottweilers are a perfect family dog, gentle, yet powerful enough to pull a sled or give a prowler second thoughts. They are good with children - a combination protector, and playmate. However, as with all dogs, caution must be exercised when infants and children are in their proximity. Knowing and understanding the temperament of your Rottweiler is your responsibility. Remember that no dog should be brought into your home as a baby sitter. You need to teach the dog to respect your children, and teach your children 4 to respect the dog. Infants and children should never be left unattended around any dog. Those of us who own them find they are wonderful pets and dearly love them. BUT . . . although we believe the Rottweiler approaches being the perfect dog, THEY ARE NOT FOR EVERYONE. Owning any dog involves certain responsibilities and this is particularly true of a large, protective breed. YOU AS A ROTTWEILER OWNER, HAVE THE OBLIGATION OF CARING FOR AND CONTROLLING A DOG WHO IS PROBABLY GOING TO BE STRONGER THAN YOU ARE. Unless you take this responsibility very seriously and are willing to put the time, energy, and thought needed into raising your dog properly, your Rottweiler will be a burden instead of a joy. Some Questions You Should Ask Yourself So, before you go any further, here is a list of things to consider. This is not meant to frighten you, but rather to make certain that you understand what is required of you as a Rottweiler owner: 1. Am I willing to give my dog regular discipline and basic obedience training? We believe that any dog, and especially a large protective dog, needs regular day-to-day discipline. Every dog must grow up knowing that he has limits of behavior, that he must respect people and property, and that he is, after all, a dog. 2. Will I see to it that both the kids and the dog treat each other properly? Although a Rottweiler makes an excellent pet for families with children, and while they are sturdier than most other dogs, they are not punching bags and are NOT meant to be tormented or harassed any more then is any other living thing. By the same token, the playful pup should not be allowed to jump on the kids, pull their britches, or steal their toys. Too often, when puppy still looks like a fuzzy toy, these antics are cute, but they aren’t so funny when the dog hits 100 pounds. 3. Am I willing to invest the time necessary to raise my Rottweiler? Rottweilers need human companionship and attention. If your idea of raising a dog is to tie him to a stake in the backyard and feed him once in awhile, do yourself a favor and don’t buy a dog. He will be miserable, you won’t have any fun, and the dog will turn into a problem instead of a joy. Rottweilers need regular grooming. This should be part of their routine from the time they get home. Regular brushing will reduce the dog hair problem, help eliminate doggy odors, and reduce the chances of skin problems. If you don’t know how to groom a Rottweiler, check with your breeder or veterinarian. 4. Am I willing to provide a good home for my Rottweiler? While a Rottweiler is happy to live in the house with the rest of the family, there are times when you will want to keep him outside. A fenced- in yard is ideal when you are not outdoors with him. A ROTTWEILER SHOULD NEVER BE ALLOWED TO RUN LOOSE! His size and demeanor may frighten someone. His big feet and inquisitive nose can be disastrous to a neighbor’s flower bed. He has no fear of cars and could easily become a casualty. And a loose dog is an openinvitation to dognappers. Your Rottweiler represents a substantial investment - one which you should protect. Although it is not a good situation; if your Rottweiler is to live outdoors, be sure that he has a clean, well-insulated, draft-free doghouse that provides a cool shady retreat. He must always have fresh drinking water and some protection from insects. 5. Will I provide proper veterinary care for my dog? Your Rottweiler will require certain routine health care. Dogs are subject to many of the same diseases as man, plus some of their own. In addition to your regular visits to the vet for “shots” or titer testing to protect against various diseases, a regular check-up by the veterinarian is certainly desirable for your dog. Preventive medication against Heartworm can also be provided by your vet. Your veterinarian should also be contacted whenever you see any signs of illness or abnormal behavior. 6. Am I sure that all of my family will share in this venture? It is a big mistake to “buy the dog for the kids” when it requires the rnanagement of responsible adults. It is also unfortunate for a pup to go into a home where it is resented by one family member who might have pre-ferred another breed. UNLESS YOUR ANSWERS TO ALL OF THESE QUESTIONS ARE AN UNQUALIFIED “YES,” WE URGE YOU TO CONSIDER SOME OTHER BREED OF DOG. You may think it strange that we seem to be discouraging you. In a way, we are, but only because we want to be sure Rottweilers only go to people who will care enough to be suitable owners for a Rottweiler. A fine dog, like a child, does not raise itself. Please take the time to con-sider carefully if you have the time, the interest, and the resources to devote to your Rottweiler. If You Decide to Buy a Rottweiler Observe the behavior of the sire (if he is on the premises) and the dam. Ideally the dam will be calm and steady, possibly even curious and friendly. It is quite correct for her to be reserved. An openly hostile bitch who does not respond to her master’s reassurances is undesirable. Cowardice and shyness are also undesirable traits. The sire’s temperament is as important as the dam’s. Puppies should be playful, inquisitive, and trusting of people. They should submit to gentle handling and respond to their environment. Clarance Pfaffenberger’s book New Knowledge of Dog Behavior will help you pick the best puppy for you. A Word About Breeding All too often, the owner of a dog will want to breed it “just to have puppies” or “to teach the kids about the facts of life.” NEITHER OF THESE ARE REASONS TO BREED A DOG! In fact, your dog will be as happy and will probably be healthier if it isn’t bred. If you bought your dog as a pet, or if your dog isn’t suitable for breeding, you should consider spaying or neutering. Don’t believe most of the old tales about the bad effects of neutering animals. A brief discussion with your veterinarian will convince you that your dog will live a longer, healthier life and be a better pet if neutered. 5 If you love your Rottweiler, it is because all the breeders of your dog’s parents, grandparents, etc. cared enough about Rottweilers to breed only the best dogs they possibly could. The responsibility of this tradition is in your hands. The American Rottweiler membership is a non-profit organization whose membership is open to everyone who is interested in the Rottweiler dog, and who agrees to abide with the objectives of the club. The American Rottweiler Club is the parent club of the Rottweiler and as such is a member of the American Kennel Club. The American Rottweiler Club has other booklets and a list of references on the Rottweiler. A list if publications and a membership application are available on our website. For more information visit the following web sites: American Rottweiler Club: www.amrottclub.org American Kennel Club: www.akc.org A PUPPY IS FOR 365 DAYS A YEAR The American Rottweiler Club reminds you that a puppy requires feeding. attention, exercise, training, regular veterinarian visits, and lots of affection 365 days per year for it’s entire life. Avoid choosing a puppy through a newspaper ad, pet store, or commercial kennel, especially those selling multiple breeds. Buy only from an ethical breeder who can show you parents of good temperament and physical soundness, one who expresses concern regarding the care and environment you will provide. Purchasing a Rottweiler puppy solely “for the kids” is not a good idea. Young puppies and children must be closely supervised. A four month old Rottweiler will weigh 35 to 45 pounds. It is equipped with sharp claws and needle-like teeth. Its “practice” growl can sound menacing. Small children are prone to move quickly and erratically; they emit shrill sounds. These actions can stimulate a puppy’s instinctive drive to BITE. Even play bites can be serious and painful. What is play for the puppy may be traumatic for the child. The reverse is also true; children must be carefully taught to treat a puppy with quiet kindness and gentleness. If you plan to leave the puppy alone for long hours, postpone the purchase. Puppies can’t be properly raised via “long distance”. Enrollment in puppy and obedience classes will promote suitable attitudes and responses in your Rottweiler. If acceptable behavior is not displayed by one year of age, chances are a novice owner will not be able to alter the dog’s unacceptable actions. The Rottweiler is a wonderful breed but it is NOT THE BREED FOR EVERYONE. We will be happy to supply information and guidance. © ARC ****ROTTWEILER OWNERS**** OUR DOGS ARE IN TROUBLE! ! ! The breed standard describes the Rottweiler as “basically a calm, confident and courageous dog that does not lend itself to immediate and indiscriminate friendships.” SHY AND VICIOUS DOGS ARE NOT ACCEPTABLE. Because uninformed, uncaring people - from celebrities to criminals - are acquiring Rottweilers, then failing to raise, train, socialize and maintain them properly, the Rottweiler has fallen into disrepute and is perceived by many as vicious. In an effort to correct this misconception and project the desired image for your Rottweiler, we urge you to observe the following: 6 DO NOT encourage your Rottweiler to be aggressive. They are naturally protective of their home. DO NOT allow your Rottweiler to roam free. No dog should be unaccompanied or off leash in public areas. DO obedience train your Rottweiler. A well behaved dog is a source of pride and pleasure and appreciated by all, especially by you. DO NOT chain or tie your Rottweiler. Dogs should be securely fenced when unattended. DO NOT leave children in charge of your Rottweiler or vice-versa. Children should never be left unsupervised with dogs. DO NOT breed your pet quality Rottweiler. Spayed or neutered dogs are healthier, happier pets. IF YOU CANNOT FULFILL YOUR OBLIGATIONS TO YOUR ROTTWEILER, THE AMERICAN ROTTWEILER CLUB SUGGESTS YOU CONSIDER PLACING IT WITH SOMEONE WHO WILL. DON’T BREED TROUBLE!!! The American Rottweiler Club is deeply concerned about the number of people breeding Rottweilers casually and commercially with no regard for the future of the puppies they cause to be produced. All Rottweiler breeders are urged to observe the following guidelines in an effort to avoid producing animals which reflect adversely on the breed, and avoid selling to buyers unprepared or unwilling to provide proper care, control, socialization and containment. BREEDER GUIDELINES: I am aware that... all my Rottweilers, puppies and adults, require house privileges and daily individual attention and affection. all my breeding stock. should be free of eye disease and OFA certified free of hip and elbow dysplasia; a champion or have points towards a championship and possess EMOTIONAL STABILITY. I need to assess my Rottweilers HONESTLY and not breed those with genetic flaws, even though the flaws may not be apparent to others. I must be cautions of prospective buyers and sell only to those whom I have investigated and who are aware of the responsibility connected with owning this breed. I should not breed solely for monetary reasons. proper record keeping is a must; I will provide all registration papers and written contracts at time of sale. I am responsible for every puppy I cause to be brought into the world for the life of the dog. as a breeder I am obligated to set a proper example of care and behavior. failure to follow these practices constitutes a disservice to the breed and all those involved with the Rottweiler. DON’T BUY TROUBLE!!! The American Rottweiler Club is greatly concerned by the number of unscrupulous people who are breeding and selling Rottweilers. In an effort to safeguard prospective buyers against those who would sell animals of inferior quality and/or unstable temperament, frequently at inflated prices, the ARC urges you to read the following BEFORE YOU BUY. ETHICAL BREEDERS: One who breeds only physically sound, healthy, mature dogs of stable temperament which are AKC registered and free from genetic defects. etc. MEMBERSHIP IN ANY CLUB DOES NOT GUARANTEE ETHICS COLOR: ALWAYS BLACK WITH RUST TO MAHOGANY MARKING. You may see ads offering another color – red, gold, even white. These are rare, as in undesirable! Such Rottweilers cannot be shown. should not be bred and efforts are being made by this club to prevent their registration. TEMPERAMENT: Calm. confident and courageous. He has an inherent desire to protect his home and family. He is an intelligent dog of extreme hardness and adaptability with a strong willingness to work. SHY, TIMID OR MINDLESSLY AGGRESSIVE DOGS ARE NOT ACCEPTABLE. Planning to Breed? or Buy a Puppy? Everything You Wanted to Know about The Stud Dog (or Brood Bitch) But Weren’t Told Because You Didn’t Ask... 1. How old is the dog? 2. How many littermates (or full brothers and sisters, if there was a repeat breeding) did he have, and how many are/were in show and/or obedience homes? a. How many are titled? b. How many are OFA normal hips, elbows and heart, CERF and VWD? c. How many are dysplastic, have cataracts, or are carriers of VWD? d. How many have (or had) entropion, a thyroid problem, a heart defect, an umbilical hernia, osteochondritis dissecans, undescended testicle(s), white spot or any other problem that might be hereditary? e. How many are over- or under-sized, or approaching either end of the standard? 3. How many litters has he sired, and how many of his get are in show and/or obedience homes? (See questions 2a through 2e). 4. What are the dog’s OFA rating? His sire’s? His dam’s? His 4 grandparents’? 5. At what age was his last eye exam done? His sire’s? His dam’s? Were all 4 grandparents cleared, and at what age? 6. What is his record as a stud to date, i.e., a. Has he been unable or unwilling to breed any bitches? 7 b. Have any of the bitches he has bred failed to conceive or carry to term? c. What is the average size of his litters? The smallest? The largest? d. Have the sexes been evenly divided, or has there been a predominance of one sex in one or more litters? 7. How fast did/does the stud dog and the line that he is from mature? a. Very quickly. Competitive/finishable from the puppy class. b. About average. Competitive/finishable between one and three years of age. c. Quite slowly. Not Competitive/finishable until three or more years of age. 8. What is the dog’s basic temperament? a. Quite soft. Will assume a submissive position if challenged by another dog, or corrected by a person. b. Even-tempered. Will defend himself if challenged by another dog, and will accept correction with equanimity. Could be kenneled with another stud dog as long as there was not a bitch in to be bred or a bitch in season. c. Fairly aggressive. Will challenge another dog for dominance, and will not accept correction from a person who is not a member of the family. Cannot be kenneled with another stud dog. 9. What is the dog’s basic attitude? a. Very mellow. Would not make an outstanding show or obedience dog because he lacks the drive and enthusiasm. b. Enthusiastic. Won’t stop retrieving until you stop throwing. Consistent in the obedience ring regardless of conditions. c. Very active. Would not make a good housedog or pet. 10. What is the dog’ s coat type? Color? Amount carried? 11. What is the dog’s eye color? What is the dog’s mouth color? 12. What is the dog’s bite like? Is it a perfect scissors with full dentition, or are there: a. missing teeth (if so, which ones). b. dropped or misaligned incisor’s. c. occlusion of incisors and canines with an “even bite”. 13. How does the dog move coming, going. and from the side? 14. How would the stud dog owner rate the following parts of the dog, using (1) excellent (2) very good (3) good (4) fair (5) poor ? a. Head. b. Length of neck. c. Shoulder layback. d. Front and rear angulation. e. Depth and breadth of chest. f. Spring of rib and length of rib cage. g. Proportionate length of upper arm. h. Topline and tailset. i. Bend of stifle. j. Pasterns and feet. k. Letdown of hock. 15. Ask the stud dog owner to send you a copy of his or her stud service agreement. WHEN TO RAISE AN EYEBROW... 1. The stud dog owner “doesn’t know”: a. How many litters the dog has sired . . . (AKC requires breeders to keep such records.) b. How many of his get are OFA or dysplastic . . . (Does the stud dog owner know their registered names? Receive the OFA supplements? Replace or make refunds on dysplastic puppies? We’re talking about the puppies sold as show and/or obedience prospects, not pet puppies.) c. How many of his get are titled … (We’re not talking about an outstanding sire with twenty champions, plus or minus, to his credit, but rather an older dog that has sired twenty or more litterd and may not have any titled get.) d. How big the dog is . . .(Give or take half an inch is sufficient. A dog doesn’t have to have been measured out with a wicket for a breeder/ owner to know how tall the dog is.) 2. The stud dog owner doesn’t agree with the rating assigned by OFA, or put much emphasis on OFA, because: a. The dog really should have gotten a “Good” rating rather than a “Fair” rating for one reason or another, but the stud dog owner did not redo or re-submit the x-ray because he or she is satisfied that the dog does in fact have “‘Good” hips. Ask if the individual is familiar with the pamphlet “What happens to a Radiograph at the OF A: The Submission and Evaluation’ Process” which can be obtained free from OFA at www.offa.org. b. The stud dog owner has heard of instances when OFA _____ (fill in the blanks). The stories are usually second or third hand, and sour grapes. Ask if the individual is familiar with the OFA pamphlet mentioned above c. The stud dog owner’s vet said _____ (fill in the blanks). Ask if the vet is a radiologist. A general practitioner may be capable of evaluating the film, but many are not. You would ask your family doctor to set a broken leg, but would you ask him to set a fractured pelvis? And OFA offers not only one opinion, but a consensus of three. Ask if the individual is familiar with the OFA pamphlet mentioned above. 3. The stud dog owner doesn’t ask you for your bitch’s: 8 By Michele Biglen The Golden Retriever News, March/April 1984 information updated August 2002) © ARC a. Hip, elbow, heart, eye, and blood clearances. b. Pedigree. c. Titles or accomplishments. d. Breeding/whelping history. 4. The stud dog owner won’t: a. Send you a written stud service agreement. b. Guarantee either (1) one or more live puppies or a repeat service, or (2) refund a portion of the stud fee. WHEN TO THANK THE INDIVIDUAL POLITELY AND BE THANKFUL YOU ASKED . . . 1. The stud dog owner tells you that the stud dog (or any other dog or bitch in their breeding program) has not been x-rayed because: a. He or she can tell by the way the dog moves that it has good hips. b. He or she is confident that the dog has good hips because his parents (grandparents, etc.) were OFA or vet cleared. 2. The stud dog owner continues to offer at stud a dog which: a. Develops cataracts. b. Is re-x-rayed after having received an OFA number, for whatever reason and is found to be dysplastic. . HEALTH BENEFITS OF SPAYING AND NEUTERING Some pet owners are not aware of the advantages of spaying or neutering their pet. A spayed or neutered pet does not become fat or lazy. Their metabolism may slow down a bit but all you have to do to keep that trim look is cut back a little on the food. In addition to the obvious advantage of preventing unwanted pregnancies, there are health and behavioral benefits: 1. Spaying or neutering is foolproof birth control that lasts a lifetime. 2. Spaying or neutering provides relief from such hormone driven urges as: . Aggression toward other dogs, particularly for males. . Territorialism, that is, the tendency to be overprotective of the dog’s home ground. . Wanderlust, that is, the desire to escape from the yard and seek sexual adventure in the outside world. . Dominance. . Marking territory with urine/feces. . Unwanted sexual behavior such as riding, sniffing, licking, arousal. . Frustration which occurs when the behaviors dictated by hormonal urges cause the dog to behave in a way that is undesirable to the owners. 3. Protection (either partial or complete) from such hormone-induced conditions as: MALES . Testicular cancer . Benign prostatic hyperplasia . Acute and chronic prostatitis, prostatic abscess . Perianal gland adenomas . Orchitis (infection of the testicles) . Transmissible venereal tumors . Perineal hernia (abdominal organs bulging out of rectum) . Inguinal hernia with potential organ strangulation . 9 FEMALES . Breast cancer . Cystic endometrial hyperplasia and pyometra . False pregnancies . . Mastitis (can occur during false pregnancy) . Transmissible venereal tumors . Ovarian and uterine tumors . Cystic ovaries and hyperestrogenism . Chronic endometritis . Vaginal hyperplasia and prolapse . Uterine torsion or uterine prolapse Does your dog have a stable temperament? Does your dog fit the breed standard? Is your dog healthy & certified (OFA, CERF) free of genetic diseases? YES YES YES YES NO NO NO Esther Findling, Buffalo, NY 1992 Pap Talk, 12/93 Found It!!! Is Your Dog Breeding Quality? Yes, you have a dog of breeding quality. However, if you are not active in showing or working your dog, think very carefully about your reason for breeding. Breeding should be done to improve the breed, not so the kids can see puppies being born, or because you want “a puppy from her,” and NEVER to make money selling puppies! Don’t breed out of greed! Is your dog purebred? AKC Registered? Where did you get your dog? Pet Store Animal Shelter Did you get a 3 to 5 generation pedigree with your dog? Are there at least 4 titled dogs (conformation, tracking, obedience, etc.) in the last 3 generations? GET YOUR PET NEUTERED!!! Breeder YES YES NO NO NO 10 AKC STANDARD FOR ROTTWEILERS General Appearance The ideal Rottweiler is a medium large, robust and powerful dog, black with clearly defined rust markings. His compact and substantial build denotes great strength, agility and endurance. Dogs are characteristically more massive throughout with larger frame and heavier bone than bitches. Bitches are distinctly feminine, but without weakness of substance or structure. Size, Proportion, & Substance Dogs - 24 inches to 27 inches. Bitches - 22 inches to 25 inches, with preferred size being mid-range of each sex. Correct proportion is of primary importance, as long as size is within the standard’s range. The length of body, from prosternum to the rearmost projection of the rump, is slightly longer than the height of the dog at the withers, the most desirable proportion of the height to length being 9 to 10. The Rottweiler is neither coarse nor shelly. Depth of chest is approximately fifty percent (50%) of the height of the dog. His bone and muscle mass must be sufficient to balance his frame, giving a compact and very powerful appearance. Serious faults -Lack of proportion, undersized, oversized, reversal of sex characteristics (bitchy dogs, doggy bitches). Head Of medium length, broad between the ears; forehead line seen in profile is moderately arched; zygomatic arch and stop well developed with strong broad upper and lower jaws. The desired ratio of backskull to muzzle is 3 to 2. Forehead is preferred dry, however some wrinkling may occur when dog is alert. Expression is noble, alert and self-assured. Eyes of medium size, almond shaped with well fitting lids, moderately deep-set, neither protruding nor receding. The desired color is a uniform dark brown. Serious Faults -Yellow (bird of prey) eyes, eyes of different color or size, hairless eye rim. Disqualification -Entropion, Ectropion. Ears of medium size, pendant, triangular in shape; when carried alertly the ears are level with the top of the skull and appear to broaden it. Ears are to be set well apart, hanging forward with the inner edge lying tightly against the head and terminating at approximately mid-cheek. Serious Faults -Improper carriage (creased, folded or held away from cheek/head.) Muzzle -Bridge is straight, broad at base with slight tapering towards tip. The end of the muzzle is broad with well developed chin. Nose is broad rather than round and always black. Lips -Always black; corners closed; inner mouth pigment is preferred dark. Serious Fault -Total lack of mouth pigment (pink mouth). Bite and Dentition -Teeth 42 in number (20 upper, 22 lower), strong, correctly placed, meeting in a scissors bite - lower incisors touching inside of upper incisors. Serious Faults -Level bite; any missing tooth. Disqualifications - Overshot, undershot (when incisors do not touch or mesh); wry mouth; two or more missing teeth. Neck, Topline, Body Neck - Powerful, well muscled, moderately long, slightly arched and without loose skin. Topline - The back is firm and level, extending in a straight line from behind the withers to the croup. The back remains horizontal to the ground while the dog is moving or standing. Body -The chest is roomy, broad and deep, reaching to elbow, with well pronounced forechest and well sprung, oval ribs. Back is straight and strong. Loin is short, deep and well muscled. Croup is broad, of medium length and only slightly sloping. Underline of mature Rottweiler has a slight tuck-up. Males must have two normal testicles properly descended into the scrotum. Disqualifications - Unilateral cryptorchid or cryptorchid males. Tail - Tail docked short, close to body, leaving one or two tail vertebrae. The set of the tail is more important than length. Properly set, it gives an impression of elongation of topline; carried slightly above horizontal when the dog is excited or moving. Forequarters Shoulder blade is long and well laid back. Upper arm equal in length to shoulder blade, set so elbows are well under body. Distance from withers to elbow and elbow to ground is equal. Legs are strongly developed with straight, heavy bone, not set close together. Pasterns are strong, springy and almost perpendicular to ground. Feet are round, compact with well arched toes, turning neither in nor out. Pads are thick and hard. Nails short, strong and black. Dewclaws may be removed. Hindquarters Angulation of hindquarters balances that of forequarters. Upper thigh is fairly long, very broad and well muscled. Stifle joint is well turned. Lower thigh is long, broad and powerful, with extensive muscling leading into a strong hock joint. Rear pasterns are nearly perpendicular to the ground. Viewed from the rear, hind legs are straight, strong and wide enough apart to fit with a properly built body. Feet are somewhat longer than the front feet, turning neither in nor out, equally compact with well arched toes. Pads are thick and hard. Nails short, strong and black. Dewclaws must be removed. Coat Outer coat is straight, coarse, dense, of medium length and lying flat. Undercoat should be present on neck and thighs, but the amount is influenced by climatic conditions. Undercoat should not show through outer coat. The coat is shortest on head, ears and legs, longest on breeching. The Rottweiler is to be exhibited in the natural condition with no trimming. Fault -Wavy coat. Serious Faults -Open, excessively short, or curly coat; total lack of undercoat; any trimming that alters the length of the natural coat. Disqualification -Long coat. Color Always black with rust to mahogany markings. The demarcation between black and rust is to be clearly defined. The markings should be located as follows: a spot over each eye; on cheeks; as a strip around each side of muzzle, but not on the bridge of the nose; on throat; triangular mark on both sides of prosternum; on forelegs from carpus downward to the toes; on inside of rear legs showing down the front of the stifle and broadening out to front of rear legs from hock to toes, but not completely eliminating black from rear of pasterns; under tail; black penciling on toes. The undercoat is gray, tan, or black. Quantity and location of rust markings is important and should not exceed ten percent of body color. Serious Faults - Straw colored, excessive, insufficient or sooty markings; rust marking other than described above; white marking any place on dog (a few rust or white hairs do not constitute a marking). Disqualifications -any base color other than black; absence of all markings. Gait The Rottweiler is a trotter. His movement should be balanced, harmonious, sure, powerful and unhindered, with strong forereach and a powerful rear drive. The motion is effortless, efficient and ground-covering. Front and rear legs are thrown neither in nor out, as the imprint of hind feet should touch that of forefeet. In a trot the forequarters and hindquarters are mutually coordinated while the back remains level, firm and relatively motionless. 11 As speed increases the legs will converge under body towards a center line. Temperament The Rottweiler is basically a calm, confident and courageous dog with a self-assured aloofness that does not lend itself to immediate and indiscriminate friendships. A Rottweiler is self-confident and responds quietly and with a wait-and-see attitude to influences in his environment. He has an inherent desire to protect home and family, and is an intelligent dog of extreme hardness and adaptability with a strong willingness to work, making him especially suited as a companion, guardian and general all purpose dog. The behavior of the Rottweiler in the show ring should be controlled, willing and adaptable, trained to submit to examination of mouth, testicles, etc. An aloof or reserved dog should not be penalized, as this reflects the accepted character of the breed. An aggressive or belligerent attitude towards other dogs should not be faulted. A judge shall excuse from the ring any shy Rottweiler. A dog shall be judged fundamentally shy if, refusing to stand for examination, it shrinks away from the judge. A dog that in the opinion of the judge menaces or threatens him/her, or exhibits any sign that it may not be safely approached or examined by the judge in the normal manner, shall be excused from the ring. A dog that in the opinion of the judge attacks any person in the ring shall be disqualified. Summary Faults The foregoing is a description of the ideal Rottweiler. Any structural fault that detracts from the above described working dog must be penalized to the extent of the deviation. Disqualifications Entropion, ectropion. Overshot, undershot (where incisors do not touch or mesh); wry mouth; two or more missing teeth. Unilateral cryptochid or cryptorchid males. Long coat. Any base color other than black; absence of all markings. A dog that in the opinion of the judge attacks any person in the ring. Approved May 8, 1990 Effective June 28, 1990 © ARC Orthopedic Foundation For Animals 2300 E. Nifong Boulevard, Columbia, MO 65201-3856 573-442-0418 www.offa.org The Orthopedic Foundation For Animals, Inc. is a non-profit organization formed in 1966 to: 1. collate and disseminate information concerning orthopedic and genetic diseases of animals. 2. advise, encourage and establish control programs to lower the incidence of orthopedic and genetic diseases. 3. encourage and finance research in orthopedic and genetic disease in animals. 4. receive funds and make grants to carry out these objectives. For Rottweilers, OFA offers registries for the following: Hip Dysplasia; Elbow Dysplasia; Patellar Luxation; Cardiac; and Thyroid. What Is Hip Dysplasia? Hip Dysplasia is a terrible genetic disease because of the various degrees of arthritis (also called degenerative joint disease, arthrosis, osteoarthrosis) it can eventually produce, leading to pain and debilitation. The very first step in the development of arthritis is articular cartilage (the type of cartilage lining the joint) damage due to the inherited bad biomechanics of an abnormally developed hip joint. Traumatic articular fracture through the joint surface is another way cartilage is damaged. With cartilage damage, lots of degradative enzymes are released into the joint. These enzymes degrade and decrease the synthesis of important constituent 12 molecules that form hyaline cartilage called proteoglycans. This causes the cartilage to lose its thickness and elasticity, which are important in absorbing mechanical loads placed across the joint during movement. Eventually, more debris and enzymes spill into the joint fluid and destroy molecules called glycosaminoglycan and hyaluronate which are important precursors that form the cartilage proteoglycans. The joint’s lubrication and ability to block inflammatory cells are lost and the debris-tainted joint fluid loses its ability to properly nourish the cartilage through impairment of nutrient-waste exchange across the joint cartilage cells. The damage then spreads to the synovial membrane lining the joint capsule and more degradative enzymes and inflammatory cells stream into the joint. Full thickness loss of cartilage allows the synovial fluid to contact nerve endings in the subchondral bone, resulting in pain. In an attempt to stabilize the joint to decrease the pain, the animal’s body produces new bone at the edges of the joint surface, joint capsule, ligament and muscle attachments (bone spurs). The joint capsule also eventually thickens and the joint’s range of motion decreases. No one can predict when or even if a dysplastic dog will start showing clinical signs of lameness due to pain. There are multiple environmental factors such as caloric intake, level of exercise, and weather that can affect the severity of clinical signs and phenotypic expression (radiographic changes). There is no rhyme or reason to the severity of radiographic changes correlated with the clinical findings. There are a number of dysplastic dogs with severe arthritis that run, jump, and play as if nothing is wrong and some dogs with barely any arthritic radiographic changes that are severely lame. Exam & Certification Radiographs submitted to the OFA must follow the American Veterinary Medical Association guidelines for positioning. This view is accepted world wide for detection and assessment of hip joint irregularities and secondary arthritic hip joint changes. To obtain this view, the animal must be placed on its back in dorsal recumbency with the rear limbs extended and parallel to each other. The knees (stifles) are rotated internally and the pelvis is symmetric. Chemical restraint (anesthesia) to the point of relaxation is recommended. For elbows, the animal is placed on its side and the respective elbow is placed in an extreme flexed position. The radiograph film must be permanently identified with the animal’s registration number or name, date the radiograph was taken, and the veterinarian’s name or hospital name. If this required information is illegible or missing, the OFA cannot accept the film for registration purposes. The owner should complete and sign the OFA application. It is important to record on the OFA application the animal’s tattoo or microchip number in order for the OFA to submit results to the AKC. Sire and dam information should also be present. Radiography of pregnant or estrus females should be avoided due to possible increased joint laxity (subluxation) from hormonal variations. OFA recommends radiographs be taken one month after weaning pups and one month before or after a heat cycle. Physical inactivity because of illness, weather, or the owner’s management practices may also result in some degree of joint laxity. The OFA recommends evaluation when the dog is in good physical condition. Chemical restraint (anesthesia) is not required by OFA but chemical restraint to the point of muscle relaxation is recommended. With chemical restraint optimum patient positioning is easier with minimal repeat radiographs (less radiation exposure) and a truer representation of the hip status is obtained.. The OFA accepts preliminary consultation radiographs on puppies as young as 4 months of age for evaluation of hip conformation. However, only dogs 24 months and older at the time of the radiograph will be eligible for certification. The phenotypic evaluation of hips done by the OFA falls into seven different categories. Those categories are normal (Excellent, Good, Fair), Borderline, and dysplastic (Mild, Moderate, Severe). Once each of the radiologists classifies the hip into one of the 7 phenotypes above, the final hip grade is decided by a consensus of the 3 independent outside evaluations. Examples would be: 1. Two radiologists reported excellent, one good—the final grade would be excellent 2. One radiologist reported excellent, one good, one fair—the final grade would be good 3. One radiologist reported fair, two radiologists reported mild—the final grade would be mild The hip grades of excellent, good and fair are within normal limits and are given OFA numbers. This information is accepted by AKC on dogs with permanent identification (tattoo, microchip) and is in the public domain. Radiographs of borderline, mild, moderate and severely dysplastic hip grades are reviewed by the OFA radiologist and a radiographic report is generated documenting the abnormal radiographic findings. Unless the owner has chosen the open database, dysplastic hip grades are not in the public domain. Example of Rottweiler Hip Certification Number RO-00000G25F-PI: RO indicates Rottweiler; 000 is certificate number; G indicates a “Good” grade, E - “Excellent”, F - Fair; 25 indicates age in months; F or M indicates Female or Male; PI indicates that the dog is permanently identified (microchip, tattoo), NOPI would indicate the dog is NOT permanently identified. What is Elbow Dysplasia? Elbow dysplasia is a general term used to identify an inherited polygenic disease in the elbow of dogs. Three specific etiologies make up this disease and they can occur independently or in conjunction with one another. These etiologies include: 1. Pathology involving the medial coronoid of the ulna (FCP) 2. Osteochondritis of the medial humeral condyle in the elbow joint (OCD) 3. Ununited anconeal process (UAP) Studies have shown the inherited polygenic traits causing these etiologies are independent of one another. Clinical signs involve lameness which may remain subtle for long periods of time. No one can predict at what age lameness will occur in a dog due to a large number of genetic and environmental factors such as degree of severity of changes, rate of weight gain, amount of exercise, etc. Subtle changes in gait may be characterized by excessive inward deviation of the paw which raises the outside of the paw so that it receives less weight and distributes more mechanical weight on the outside (lateral) aspect of the elbow joint away from the lesions located on the inside of the joint. Range of motion in the elbow is also decreased. 13 Certification For elbow evaluations, there are no grades for a radiographically normal elbow. The only grades involved are for abnormal elbows with radiographic changes associated with secondary degenerative joint disease. Like the hip certification, the OFA will not certify a normal elbow until the dog is 2 years of age. The OFA also accepts preliminary elbow radiographs. To date, there are no long term studies for preliminary elbow examinations like there are for hips, however, preliminary screening for elbows along with hips can also provide valuable information to the breeder. Example of Rottweiler Elbow Certification Number RO-EL0000M29-PI: RO indicates Rottweiler; EL indicates Elbow Dysplasia Registry; 000 is certificate number; F or M indicates Female or Male; 29 indicates age in months; PI indicates that the dog is permanently identified (microchip, tattoo), NOPI would indicate the dog is NOT permanently identified. What is Patellar Luxation? The patella, or kneecap, is part of the stifle joint (knee). In patellar luxation, the kneecap luxates, or pops out of place, either in a medial or lateral position. Bilateral involvement is most common, but unilateral is not uncommon. Animals can be affected by the time they are 8 weeks of age. The most notable finding is a knock-knee (genu valgum) stance. The patella is usually reducible, and laxity of the medial collateral ligament may be evident. The medial retinacular tissues of the stifle joint are often thickened, and the foot can be seen to twist laterally as weight is placed on the limb. Examination and Certification The dog is examined awake (chemical restraint is not recommended) and classified by the attending veterinarian according to the application and general information instructions. The veterinarian then completes the application form indicating the the results of the dog’s patella evaluation. The application and fee can then be mailed to OFA. The attending veterinarian and owner is encouraged to submit all evaluations, whether normal or abnormal, for the purpose of completeness of data. There is no OFA fee for entering an abnormal evaluation of the patella in the data bank. A breed database number will be issued to all dogs found to be normal at 12 months of age or older. The breed database number will contain the age at evaluation and it is recommended that dogs be periodically reexamined as some luxations will not be evident until later in life. Example of Rottweiler Patella Luxation Certification Number RO-PA000/25/M/P-PI: RO indicates Rottweiler; PA indicates Patella Luxation Registry; 000 is certificate number; 25 indicates age in months; F or M indicates Female or Male; S -indicates exam was performed by a specialist and P - would be a general practitioner. PI indicates that the dog is permanently identified (DNA, microchip, tattoo), NOPI would indicate the dog is NOT permanently identified. General Cardiac Information: Congenital Heart Disease Congenital heart diseases in dogs are malformations of the heart or great vessels. The lesions characterizing congenital heart defects are present at birth and may develop more fully during perinatal and growth periods. Many congenital heart defects are thought to be genetically transmitted from parents to offspring; however, the exact modes of inheritance have not been precisely determined for all cardiovascular malformations. Developmental Inherited Cardiac Diseases (SAS and Cardiomyopathy) At this time inherited, developmental cardiac diseases like subaortic stenosis and cardiomyopathies are difficult to monitor since there is no clear cut distinction between normal and abnormal. The OFA will modify the congenital cardiac database when a proven diagnostic modality and normal parameters by breed are established. However at this time, the OFA cardiac database should not be considered as a screening tool for these diseases. Purpose of Cardiac Database To gather data regarding congenital heart diseases in dogs and to identify dogs which are phenotypically normal prior to use in a breeding program. For the purposes of the database, a phenotypically normal dog is defined as: 1. One without a cardiac murmur -or 2. One with an innocent heart murmur that is found to be otherwise normal by virtue of an echocardiographic examination which includes Doppler echocardiography The Cardiac Exam The clinical cardiac examination should be conducted in a systematic manner. The arterial and venous pulses, mucous membranes, and precordium should be evaluated. Heart rate should be obtained. The clinical examination should be performed by an individual with advanced training in cardiac diagnosis. Board certification by the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine, Specialty of Cardiology is considered by the American Veterinary Medical Association as the benchmark of clinical proficiency for veterinarians in clinical cardiology, and examination by a Diplomate of this specialty board is recommended. Other veterinarians may be able to perform these examinations, provided they have received advanced training in the subspecialty of congenital heart disease. Cardiac auscultation should be performed in a quiet, distraction-free environment. The animal should be standing and restrained, but sedative drugs should be avoided. Panting must be controlled and if necessary, the dog should be given time to rest and acclimate to the environment. The clinician should be able to identify the cardiac valve areas for auscultation. The examiner should gradually move the stethoscope across all valve areas and also should auscultate over the subaortic area, ascending aorta, pulmonary artery, and the left craniodorsal cardiac base. Following examination of the left precordium, the right precordium should be examined. 14 Some heart murmurs become evident or louder with changes in autonomic activity, heart rate, or cardiac cycle length. Such changes may be induced by exercise or other stresses. The importance of evaluating heart murmurs after exercise is currently unresolved. It appears that some dogs with congenital subaortic stenosis or with dynamic outflow tract obstruction may have murmurs that only become evident with increased sympathetic activity or after prolonged cardiac filling periods during marked sinus arrhythmia It also should be noted that some normal, innocent heart murmurs may increase in intensity after exercise. Furthermore, panting artifact may be a problem after exercise. It is most likely that examining dogs after exercise will result in increased sensitivity to diagnosis of soft murmurs but probably decreased specificity as well. Auscultation of the heart following exercise is at the discretion of the examining veterinarian. The Congenital Cardiac Database is for dogs 12 months and over. Examinations performed on dogs less than 12 months will be treated as Consultations and no OFA breed numbers will be assigned. Example of Rottweiler Cardiac Certification Number RO-CA000/22M/C-PI: RO indicates Rottweiler; CA indicates Cardiac Registry; 000 is certificate number; 22 indicates age in months; F or M indicates Female or Male; C -indicates exam was performed by a Board Certified Cardiologist, S -would be a cardiac specialist and P - would be a general practitioner. PI indicates that the dog is permanently identified (DNA, microchip, tattoo), NOPI would indicate the dog is NOT permanently identified. General Thyroid Information Autoimmune thyroiditis is the most common cause of primary hypothyroidism in dogs. The disease has variable onset, but tends to clinically manifest itself at 2 to 5 years of age. Dogs may be clinically normal for years, only to become hypothyroid at a later date. The marker for autoimmune thyroiditis, thyroglobulin autoantibody formation, usually occurs prior to the occurrence of clinical signs. Therefore, periodic retesting is recommended. The majority of dogs that develop autoantibodies have them by 3 to 4 years of age. Development of autoantibodies at any time in the dog’s life is an indication that the dog, most likely, has the genetic form of the disease. Using today’s technology only a small fraction of false positive tests occur. As a result of the variable onset of the presence of autoantibodies, periodic testing will be necessary. Dogs that are negative at 1 year of age may become positive at 6 years of age. Dogs should be tested every year or two in order to be certain they have not developed the condition. Since the majority of affected dogs will have autoantibodies by 4 years of age, annual testing for the first 4 years is recommended. After that, testing every other year should suffice. Unfortunately, a negative at any one time will not guarantee that the dog will not develop thyroiditis. The registry data can be used by breeders in determining which dogs are best for their breeding program. Knowing the status of the dog and the status of the dogs lineage, breeders and genetic counselors can decide which matings are most appropriate for reducing the incidence of autoimmune thyroiditis in the offspring. Purpose of Thyroid Database To identify those dogs that are phenotypically normal for breeding programs and to gather data on the genetic disease autoimmune thyroiditis Examination Each dog is to be examined by an attending veterinarian and have a serum sample sent to an OFA approved laboratory for testing. A breed database number will be issued to all dogs found to be normal at 12 months of age. Ages will be used in the certification process since the classification can change as the dog ages and the autoimmune disease progresses. It is recommended that reexamination occur at ages 2,3,4,6, and 8 years. Example of Rottweiler Thyroid Certification Number RO-TH000/30F-PI: RO indicates Rottweiler; TH indicates Thyroid Registry; 000 is certificate number; 30 indicates age in months; F or M indicates Female or Male; PI indicates that the dog is permanently identified (DNA, microchip, tattoo), NOPI would indicate the dog is NOT permanently identified. For more detailed information about the OFA Registries and downloadable application forms, visit the OFA web site at: www.offa.org. Canine Eye Registry Foundation Purdue University-CERF/Lynn Hall 625 Harrison St., W. Lafayette, IN 47907-2026 765-494-8179 www.vet.purdue.edu/~yshen/cerf.html The Canine Eye Registration Foundation (C.E.R.F.) is an organization that was founded by a group of concerned, purebred owner/breeders who recognized that the quality of their dog’s lives were being affected by heritable eye disease. C.E.R.F. was then established in conjunction with cooperating, board certified, veterinary ophthalmologists, as a means to accomplish the goal of elimination of heritable eye disease in all purebred dogs by forming a centralized, national registry. It is dedicated to the elimination of heritable eye disease in purebred dogs through registration and research. The C.E.R.F. Registry not only registers those dog’s certified free of heritable eye disease by members of the American College of Veterinary Ophthalmologists (A.C.V.O. ), but also collects data on all dogs examined by A.C.V.O. Diplomates. This data is used to form the C.E.R.F. data base which is useful in researching trends in eye disease and breed susceptibility. Not only is this data useful to clinicians and students of ophthalmology, but to interested breed clubs and individual breeders and owners of specific breeds. C.E.R.F. Certification After the painless examination of the dogs eyes, the A.C.V.O. Diplomate will complete the C.E.R.F. form and indicate any specific disease(s) found. Breeding advice will be offered based on guidelines established for that particular breed by the genetics Committee of the A.C.V.O. Bear in mind that 15 C.E.R.F. and the A.C.V.O. are separate, but cooperating entities. The A.C.V.O only provides their professional services and expertise to ensure that uniform standards are upheld for the certification of dog’s eyes with the C.E.R.F. organization. If the dog is certified to be free of heritable eye disease, you can then send in the completed owner’s copy of the C.E.R.F. form with the appropriate fee. C.E.R.F. has adopted a policy effective Jan. 1st, 2001 (by post mark) that a permanent identification in the form of microchip, tattoo or DNA profile will be needed for any dog to be registered with C.E.R.F.. The certification is good for 12 months from the date of the exam and afterwards the dog must be reexamined and recertified to maintain its’ registration with C.E.R.F.. Regardless of the outcome of the dog’s exam, the research copy of the C.E.R.F. form will be sent to the C.E.R.F. office at V.M.D.B (Veterinary Medical Database) where its information will be entered into the database for that specific breed. This information will be used in generating research reports, but the individual dog’s identities will become confidential and will never be released. Example of Rottweiler C.E.R.F. Number RO—000/92-81: RO indicates Rottweiler; 000 is certificate number; 92 indicates year of exam; 81 indicates dogs age in months when examined. For more detailed information about C.E.R.F. visit the web site at: www.vet.purdue.edu/~yshen/cerf.html. © ARC 16